Home Home > Building Middle Earth - The Shire > Farmer Maggots' Farm
Farmer Maggots' Farm
Intermediate
Materials, Equipment and Paints Used:
Foamcore
Wooden Barbeque Skewers
Milliput
Paper
Scissors
PVA Glue
A4 OHP acetate
Balsa Wood Sheets
Plastic Topped Pins
Fur
Thin Cardboard
Thick Cardboard
Balsa Wood Sheets
Metal Rule
Sharp Craft Knife
Cutting Board
Abaddon Black
Rhinox Hide
Steel Legion Drab
Karak Stone
Ushabti Bone
Doombull Brown
Khorne Red
Wazdakka Red
Dawnstone
Balor Brown
Zamesi Desert
Green Flocks
Static Grass
Clump Foliage
Small Tree
Patterned Plasticard

They went along the lane, until they saw the thatched roofs of a large house and farm-buildings peeping out among the trees ahead. The Maggots, and the Puddifoots of Stock, and most of the inhabitants of the Marish, were house-dwellers; and this farm was stoutly built of brick and had a high wall all round it. There was a wide wooden gate opening out of the wall into the lane.

Introduction

Farmer Maggot was a Hobbit who at the time of the War of the Ring owned a farm called Bamfurlong in the Marish in the Eastfarthing of the Shire. Like most inhabitants of the Marish, which was fertile but boggy, Maggot and his family lived in a house instead of a hobbit-hole. Maggot had a wife, at least two sons and three daughters, plus a few other hobbits who belonged to the farm.

Farmer Maggot was a shrewd hobbit who was familiar with Tom Bombadil and friendly to all Brandybucks. Living in the borderlands Maggot had to be more on his guard than most Hobbits and for protection he kept three huge dogs called Grip, Fang, and Wolf.

When Frodo Baggins was young he lived in Brandy Hall and used to sneak into Farmer Maggot's fields to steal mushrooms. When Maggot finally caught him he beat the young mushroom poacher and had his dogs chase Frodo all the way to the Bucklebury Ferry. Frodo remained terrified of the old farmer and his dogs thereafter.

On 25 September of T.A. 3018, Maggot was approached by a Black Rider who asked him if he has seen Baggins. Maggot told him that the Bagginses were in Hobbiton. The rider said that this Baggins had left Hobbiton and that he would reward Maggot with gold if he informed him the next time he came. Maggot however, despite the chill this stranger caused him, was enraged by his trespassing and threatened him with his dogs. Though Maggot's dogs yelped and ran, the rider, infuriated by the hobbit's defiance, hissed and left like thunder.

Later that day Frodo, Sam and Pippin came to Maggot's farm. After Mrs. Maggot served the travelers mugs of beer, Maggot related his story about the stranger. Frodo thanked the farmer for his hospitality and said that they had to hurry along. Maggot then offered the hobbits supper and said that he would take them by wagon to the Ferry thereafter. The invitation was gratefully accepted.

In the night Maggot and his passengers headed for the Ferry, and they encountered Merry looking for them. Upon reaching their destination, Maggot set out for home after giving Frodo a gift from Mrs Maggot. The gift was a basket of mushrooms.

This article will show how to build and set up a complete farm board including the house, fields and other details.

Wheat Fields

The Wheat fields are made from a coconut doormat, but made into a maze like field so that models can make their way through the field.

Cut a 20" by 20" square from a piece of thick mounting card. Then cut the mat in to strips of 2 1/2" wide. There will be five rows, with two walk way through the wheat. Mark out on the card where the rows and walkways will go and cut the mat strips to size. Mark on the board and the back of the mat where they go (I used numbers for the rows 1-5 and letters A - C for each part of the row).

Cover the pathway areas in PVA glue and sprinkle on sand. Shake off any excess and allow to dry.

Paint the sand in a dark brown and then drybrush with a lighter brown. Glue the mat pieces into their correct places and that is the wheat fields made. You could of course just cut the mat to size if you didn't want the maze with in it.

Glue bits of loose matting over the pathway areas to represent trampled down wheat.

Corn Fields

Take the wooden barbeque skewers and snap them into pieces that are about 1" to 2 1/2" in length. With a craft knife tidy up one end, leaving one end with spriggy bits that will happen during the snap.

Roll some milliput into small sausage blobs about 1/4" in length. Glue three of these on the a wooden stalk made above.

Cut stripes of paper into 1/4" widths that are about 1 1/2" to 2" in length and shape one end to be leaf like. You will need at least three of these per stalk.

Cover each leaf in watered down PVA and start to wrap around the stalk leafing a bit hanging off as the leaf.

Put to one side and you will now need to make 239! It is a good idea to have a system. I made all the stalks first, then the milliput corn cobs, then the leaves and then made them in batches of 60 of a period of a few days.

Another tip to speed things up is not to put the milliput corn cobs on all of them. I did about 1/3 of them with corn cobs and the rest without.

One they are all made they will need to be undercoated in black and then painted in green. I did then using spray paints to save time. The corn cobs were picked out in yellow.

The corn field will be 20" by 20" like the wheat field but I decided to cut it into five 5" wide strips to make it easier to store. If you have plenty of storage space you can skip doing this.

Cut five 5" by 20" stripes of thick mounting card (or 20" by 20" if you have the storage space). In much the same manner as mat pieces for the wheat fields above, cut pieces of foamcore that are 2 1/2" wide. Angle the edges so they are sloped and glue them in place on to the card. Cover in PVA and sprinkle on sand, shaking off the excess. Once the glue has dried paint it in a dark brown and drybrush with a lighter brown.

Push and glue the corn stalks on to the foamcore in rows of three and separated roughly 1" apart.

Vegetable Patches

Cut four 6" by 6" squares of foamcore and angle the edges. Make a ground paste by mixing sand with PVA and thickly cover the squares. Using an old wet paintbrush drag some lines down. Allow the paste to dry and paint a dark brown then drybrush with a lighter brown.

Out of a modelling putty such as green stuff make tops of vegetables such as carrots and turnips. These are just small blobs of putty (turnips being larger and rouner) that are painted orange for carrots and Ushabti Bone with a purple top for the turnips. Also out of green stuff mushrooms can be made, these are just two shaped blobs of putty and painted Karak Stone. Cabbages are just made from small bits of clump foliage. Lichen is used as the stalks of the carrots and turnips.

Scarecrow

Cut two pieces of wooden barbeque skewers one 1 1/4" long and the other 1" long. with the first cut a notch out 1/4" from one end and on the other cut this notch in the centre of it. Glue the two pieces together in a cross frame using PVA and allow to dry.

Mix up some Green Stuff or Milliput and sculpt a scarecrow shape. It doesn't have to be that detailed after all it is only a scarecrow.

Undercoat in black, paint the "flesh" areas with Karak Stone and the clothes in Rhinox Hide.

The House

The walls are cut from foamcore using the following dimensions:

The diagrams above show where the doors and windows are so cut those out. They also display the layout for the planking which we shall add later.

Make sure your craft knife is sharp when cutting the foamcore to prevent tearing.


Download and print out these Shire Window Templates on over head projector acetate. Cut out the windows and glue them to the front of the walls.

The timber beams are made from balsa wood sheets of quite a thin size. I cut out strips that were just over 1/4” thick. When cutting I used a metal rule to get straight beams. The beams were then glued on the walls using PVA and left to set. Once set, taking a craft knife the edges were nicked and cut to age and weather them. You will also need to cut out circular window and door frames out of the same balsa sheets.

The doors were made from slightly thicker balsa sheets than that which was used for the timber beams. Before cutting out I lightly scored lengths down the door to represent the wooden planks the door was made up from. Two lengths of balsa the length as the door was attached towards the top and bottom and hinges and metalwork (such as the door lock) was cut out of thin card and glues in to place.

An end of a round headed pin was cut and used as the doorknocker.

Tip
If you plan on making the interior playable as I have done, you will need to apply balsa timbers inside like you have done to the outside.
You will also have to make a bar and support pillars.

Cut out the pieces of brick plasticard as shown in the dimensions above and glue these into place.

The roof was made from a block of polystyrene and cut to shape using the following dimensions:

Once the roof has cut, fur is glued in place using PVA glue. Once dried this was soaked down with a thinned mix of 75% PVA and water mix. An old tooth brush was used to get the fur to texture as desired by brushing in downward strokes. This was left to dry and this can take a few days to fully set.

The chimney is cut from extruded polystyrene and the brick work pattern scored onto the surface using a ballpoint pen. You could of course make this from Hirst Art blocks.

Before undercoating on the exposed foamcore wall sections I thickly applied a layer of PVA glue to give the walls some texture during the painting stage.

Everything on the house was undercoated in black. If you plan on using spray undercoat one thing to be aware of is that the spray will melt the exposed foam parts of the foamcore. A handy tip is to first cover these parts in a layer of PVA glue and allow to dry, this can be done when applying PVA to the wall parts for texture. Also the windows will need to be covered in masking tape before spraying the undercoat so that no paint will get on the acetate.

The walls were first coated in Steel Legion Drab, then drybrushed with Karak Stone and finally drybrushed with Ushabti Bone.

The beams and wooden areas such as the doors were painted in Rhinox Hide and then using a small decorating paint brush the entire wall was drybrushed using Steel Legion Drab. This weathers and dirties both the wood beams and the walls themselves.

The bricks were basecoated in Karak Stone making sure the paint covers all the sunken mortar parts. It was then drybrushed using Doombull Brown.

The front door was painted Khorne Red the drybrushed with Wazdakka Red.

The roof was undercoated in black then heavy drybrushed in Rhinox Hide, followed by a drybrush of Balor Brown, Zamesi Desert and a final light drybrush of Ushabti Bone .

The chimneys were drybrushed using Dawnstone then drybrushed with Karak Stone and finally drybrushed with Ushabti Bone.

Dog Kennels

The dog kennels I thought would look similar to Hobbit Holes, just as our human dog house look similar to our houses. I also decided that they would be made out of holes in a mound in the ground.

The kennel was made from a piece of polystyrene, any type will do, the one I made was made from white polystyrene. This was then cut to a square of 7" by 4" and 2" high and then shaped to be a half hill type shape. Three dog holes where then cut out of the flattened front side.

Trace around the front onto a sheet of Balsawood and cut this out. Score on horizontal plank design using a ball point pen and glue this using PVA to the front.

At this stage undercoat it in black and using Stirland Mud textured paint for the dog holes. The front planking was basecoated in Rhinox Hide and the drybrushed with Steel Legion Drab.

Cover the rest in the same green flock you use on your gaming boards then apply different types of flock, static grass and clump foliage over the mound.

Attach a small tree to the top if you want like what I did to mine to add an extra detail to the kennel.

Stables

The walls are cut from foamcore and doors cut from balsa wood using the following dimensions:

Take the four side walls and glue the three back walls in between them so you create four areas for horses. The wall sections are all glued on to a thick card base that is then cut to size.

Cut out pieces in the same plasticard used for the house brick wall and cover all the wall sections in this.

The doors were made from balsa wood cut using the dimensions above and glued in place using card hinges. You will have a top and bottom section for each door. The 7" long strip of balsa wood is glued above the doors as a support beam.

The roof is made from card cut to size and thatch in the same way as the main house.

The Walls were drybrushed using Dawnstone then drybrushed with Karak Stone and finally drybrushed with Ushabti Bone.

The roof and wooden sections were painted the same as the main house.

The Gate and Walls

The card is made from balsawood. Take a cavalry base and draw around this on a piece of balsawood. Cut this out and draw horizontal plank design using a ball point pen, then cut this in half. Square the ends of both halves off and cut out a slot about 1/4" long in the centre of all of them.

Cut a piece of card 1/2" long and fold in half. Using PVA glue on side of this hinge in the slot of a gate half.

Cut two pieces of balsarod 1 1/2" long. offer up a gate and see how high a slot needs to be cut and then cut it out of the rod. Glue a gate half into this slot. I used some pins with a ball at the head and pushed these into the tops of the post.

Modelleing sand was glued around the path walkway area and the entire piece was undercoated in black. The wood and door was painted in the same manner as the the house above.

Green flock was applied to the base and clump foliage around the base of the posts.

For the walls I use some old GW wall models. I don't believe these are available anymore but any wargame wall model should be okay to use. You could even make the wall out of Hirst Art blocks if you have any.



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